Doing Maintenance On My Inshore.

it was fun for sure. I knew I had a problem when it cranked, had current, and would not start.
glad I was able to troubleshoot and do all the maintenance myself.

my friend Tony just took his boat and had his Yamaha maintenance, it cost him over 1K. gzzz
I don't even want to think about how much this would have cost???

 

lots a nut where my finger is in that photo above. hoping that after running the motor, it will shake free so I can find it???

 

Next up: Ordered a water pump install kit. It's recommended to replace every 100 hours or once a year in salt water. I think it's about time since it's been sitting, and probably curved and not pumping as it should. lol

 

Started to remove my lower unit to install the water pump kit.

started to lower, took some pic of those mud dauber nests













Remove the speed sensor house



used rope to hold in place.



placed on my custom lower unit stand lol



placed on my custom lower unit stand lol

 

brushed off all the mud dauber nests, then housed off, and sprayed with penetrating lube.

 

I'm letting the penetrating lube work overnight.
All in all, it's pretty clean, not too much calcium buildup, but I will be flushing anyway.

I will be doing the install tomorrow.

 

yeah, I'm with you on that. I like tackling these jobs, instead of taking it to a place, leaving the boat, and having someone they hire to do the job. when I know I can do it.

 

Today I ran into a problem that I eventually got it done.
first, the pump drive shaft collar and spacer would not let loose, ended up cracking the plastic spacer to get it off. So I ordered a new one from Amazon that will be here 8AM. (got to love Amazon)The
next problem was the woodruff key was stuck in good.
I soaked with penetrating oil overnight, tried heat, then ice. nope. ended up using my Dremel to cut a slot down the middle to get it out.
took all day. so I had my circulating pump flashing the motor all day.
sometimes what was supposed to be an easy job turns into an all-day event.
the dealer would have said the shaft needs to be replaced.

the Impella was disfigured and starting to get cracks.



the plate it is seated on had some wear.



Flushing notor





ended up using my Dremel to cut a slot down the middle to get it out.

 

Whether you do it yourself or have someone take care of it,

Inspecting and replacing your zincs is one of the smartest things you can do for your outboard — especially if you run in saltwater.

Most people forget about them, your outyboard (and most outboards) has:

1. Trim Tab Zinc Anode — under the anti-ventilation plate, often mistaken for just a steering fin
2. Transom Bracket Anode — mounted near the clamp bracket under the motor on your transom, exposed to splash and spray
3. Internal Engine Zincs — threaded into cooling passages, protecting the block from corrosion

These zincs serve a real purpose: they sacrifice themselves to protect your aluminum and stainless components from electrolysis and saltwater corrosion. Ignore them, and you’ll be replacing gearcases, brackets, or even blocks way sooner than you should.

• If your trim tab zinc has a fin, it helps for corrosion, but it also acts as and compensats for propeller steering torque — helping your boat track straight
• If your transom bracket zinc is pitted or missing, replace it before it starts eating into the bracket itself.
• And if you’ve never pulled the internal zincs — it’s time. They’re cheap, easy to swap, and save you thousands in the long run.

Bottom line: Check your zincs. Replace them if they’re worn. It’s cheap insurance for your motor.

and flush your motor good every time you take it out. the inside of my motor looked pretty good, mainly because I always flush and I'm unloading my boat. I let it run for over 15 minutes, I use the muffs AND the outlet on the side of the motor, which has a hose connection.

Another thing I do is, I spray the entire motor with corrosion guard or marine motor spray. It protects the paint, wiring, and hardware from oxidation and salt creep.


my boat's been sitting, so I am talking about everything before I take it out.

 

I feel your pain. I got lucky. The Woodruff key felt like it was welded in, but after hours of fun trying to tap it out from top and bottom. I decided to cut down the middle and cave it inward. and to my surprise, it worked. sometimes I got lucky. I know the dealer would have told me I needed a new shaft.

anyways, my next post will be it installed and working like new.

I did run into another problem, though. When the notor started and ran for around three minutes, it would shut off. what!!! yep. so I needed to troubleshoot things.

when I would try to restart it, I would have to remove the Kety Switch Safety Laynard because when I went to start it, it would beep. after I placed it back in, the motor would start. so I removed it from the dash and disconnected the safety switch. then it started and stayed running. so I ordered a whole new panel with key and safety, etc. It should be here tomorrow.

 

Do you remember what it was doing?

 

The switch panel came in. I will be installing it in the morning.
amazing how they can sell this for less than half of OEM
Paid $39.00 bucks.
OEM on Amazon $184.00 WOW

 

I installed the new switch panel. As online people said, the holes did not line up, so I removed and connected everything to my old panel plate, then reinstalled it. fit and works perfectly.

 

I finished the motor maintenance. will post when I find the time.

Now took apart my aluminum trailer, replacing ALL bunk boards, carpet, brackets, tubing, and hardware. Trailer Lights, Guide Lights, and Reflectors. painting my galvanized rims, etc.
Painting all crossmembers and new brackets, and tubing. even though they are aluminum. etc.

 

This line of storms is what is holding me up today.
I keep going in and out and coming in wet. lol