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Marine Battery Talk

Discussion in 'Boat Supply, Boat Parts, Boat Information etc…' started by Nautical Gator, Feb 28, 2016.

  1. Nautical Gator

    Nautical Gator Forum Captain, Moderator, Peacekeeper Staff Member
    Thread Started By

    Marine Battery Talk
    Everything you wanted to know about marine Battery's

    Boat Battery Basics
    Tired of Replacing Batteries Every Two Years?
    A better Understanding of Batteries Will Help Resolve Your Problems

    Marine Investigations

    One of the most common problems I run into on surveys is dead or severely depleted batteries. The usual reason why boat batteries are dead is due to having the wrong type, size or quality to meet the vessel's demands. Truly good batteries are expensive and there are few boat builders that provide good batteries with new vessels; usually the quality is minimal, the amount of power inadequate, and the type ill-suited.

    The subject of batteries can be rather complex, but I'm sure most boat owners would rather not know too much about the details of how batteries work (or fail to work). The discussion of batteries can be divided into two major topics, battery construction and application, and charging. This essay deals mainly with battery construction and application, and will help you gain a better understanding of what type is best for your application, as well as what is needed to maintain them for longest service life and reliability. Application means the type of boat you have, how it is used, and the kinds of equipment on it.

    Until the recent advent of electronic chargers we had big problems with ferroresonant chargers overcharging and damaging batteries. Now, to the best of my knowledge, all electronic chargers provide the basic 3 stage charging with electronic sensing that prevents overcharging. Therefore, if you have an old charger and are having premature battery failure problems, you'd best replace the unit. Symptoms of overcharging are hot batteries and unusual fluid loss.

    System Designs

    Batteries lie at the heart of all pleasurecraft DC electrical systems but there is wide variation on how DC systems are set up, meaning what purpose is assigned to each bank. The vast majority of all boats have relatively simple 12 volt systems consisting of banks of one, two or four batteries connected in parallel. Larger yachts may have 24 or 32 volt systems. In the standard, or I should say typical marine system, each bank is used for starting one engine, but is also wired to a battery selector switch. The selector switch may have positions marked 1, 2 or ALL. Other switches are marked ON/OFF, in which case bank source cannot be changed. In most cases the selector switch controls which bank runs the house system. In older boats, engine starting may be controlled by the switch. The ABYC standard requires all boats to have a master shut off switch, but not a selector switch.

    Battery parallel switches join two batteries together in parallel (doubles amperage, not voltage), even if both are low, will often start an engine that won't start on one bank alone. This facilitates the starting circuit alone and will have no effect on the house system.

    Boats which have a selector switch are usually set up in such a way that the source for the house system can be selected via the switch. In many, if not most, later model boats the house system is permanently wired to both banks. With older and particularly larger boats, there is likely to be one bank dedicated as the house bank.

    Generators should have a separate starting battery so that if the main banks go dead, the generator can still be started. This is not always the case.

    * * * * * *

    Unfortunately, batteries are made in so many configurations and types that there are no quick and easy answers for those that desire quick answers. This essay is the culmination of several weeks worth of research into battery fundamentals, standards and testing. It is not a technical treatise of scientific exactitude because were I do so, this essay would end up dozens of pages long and I'm sure you have no interest in reading that.

    This essay is intended to be of most benefit to those of you who suffer from the problems of premature battery failure and all-to-frequent replacement. If you're ever wondered why there is so much conflicting information about batteries, it is because not many people bother to take the time to learn, including many people that sell batteries. Amongst experts, there is wide agreement about performance of various types because actual performance is easily proven.

    Contrary to popular misconception, the so-called "maintenance-free" battery is anything but. The only difference between the this type and those not so designated is that you don't have to top off the electrolyte (add water) when it evaporates, but batteries still need to be maintained in other ways as they will not function properly when ignored. Sealed batteries are not really sealed because all wet cell batteries have to be vented in order to discharge the build up of pressure during charging. Thus, even maintenance-free batteries can loose fluid, especially as a result of over charging. The primary difference is that one cannot add water to a "sealed" battery, though some will leak if laid over.

    These batteries are also not maintenance free because they will naturally discharge themselves over time at a rate of anywhere from 1% to 15% per month, depending on type. These batteries should not be left uncharged month after month, but should be maintenance charged on a regular basis. Total discharge will destroy a battery so that it will never take a full charge again.

    Most inboard powered boats are fitted with shore power systems and battery chargers to keep the batteries charged. Up until recently all battery chargers were the ferroresonant type capable of "trickle" charging, that is, supplying a very low charge rate sufficient to keep the batteries up to snuff. The problem with those older chargers was that they had a bad tendency to overcharge and boil all the electrolyte away which damages and eventually ruins the battery. Overcharging is deadly to gel cells.

    The introduction of electronic, 3-stage chargers in recent years has been a vast improvement in battery maintenance because these chargers are able to sense when the battery cannot take any more charge and then shut off.

    Installation Requirements

    Batteries should be installed in a dry location and at a sufficient height above the bilge that a hull flooding incident will not immediately submerge the batteries and short them out. Batteries mounted close to the bottom of the hull run this risk.

    Batteries generate hydrogen gas while charging; hydrogen gas is highly corrosive to most metals and particularly rubber products. Thus, hoses, wiring, fuel and oil lines should never be located ABOVE batteries as this gas is lighter than air and will rise.

    Regardless of type, it is highly recommended that batteries be mounted in rugged, covered plastic boxes specially designed for this purpose. This is to contain the inevitable sulfuric acid leaks, this acid being very damaging to all organic materials (clothing, wood) as well as most metals.

    Battery Types

    All lead/acid batteries are not basically the same. The basic types are starting or automotive, marine and deep-cycle batteries. That last category name has been seriously abused in recent years by marketers of hybrid batteries that are not true deep-cycle but a cross between a starting battery and a deep-cycle. These will have plates that are slightly thicker than starting batteries, but much thinner than deep cycle batteries.

    The most important criteria that determines battery type and performance is the thickness and composition of the battery plates, the factor that most affects cost.

    Battery service life is primarily determined by how many times it is cycled, and whether it has been designed to withstand frequent and significant discharging. Cycling means each period of discharging and subsequent recharging. Equally important is how far a battery is discharged before recharging. Automotive batteries are designed to tolerate discharges at around 5% before recharging and will soon fail if deeply discharged, whereas deep cycle batteries are designed to discharge to 50% or more without being harmed.

    Starting/Automotive As its name implies, starting batteries are used to start and run engines. These have different characteristics since engine starting requires very high bursts of amperage for short periods. Starting or automotive batteries have have a large number of very thin (0.40"), highly porous plates so as to provide the maximum surface area to yield that high high burst amperage. The down side of this type of battery construction is that it does not tolerate deep discharging well, and will fail after a relatively small number of deep discharge cycles (about 400 versus 2,000 for deep cycle). Starting batteries are commonly found in outboard and many entry level boats.

    These are also frequently inappropriately labeled as "marine" batteries or auto/marine. Automotive batteries are meant to be constantly charged by an alternator so as to avoid discharge rates more than 5%. Starting batteries are usually rated by CCA (cold cranking amps) or simply CA (cranking amps), and more often than not have NO rating imprinted on the label. One method of identifying starting batteries is by their price: they are always much lower priced than true marine or deep-cycle batteries, as well as their lack of any rating. There are literally hundreds of brand names of this type and many are of very poor quality.

    Marine It seems as if every battery manufacturer today sells "marine" batteries but, as mentioned earlier, many such take considerable liberty with the term. Some marine batteries are deep cycle, others are hybrids, while others are pure hokum. True marine batteries are designed for dual use of engine starting and house service and are therefore hybrids (not true deep cycle). These will have spongy, porous plates that are significantly thicker than automotive batteries. They will be larger and heavier than auto batteries. A true marine battery will tolerate up to 50% discharge, whereas a deep-cycle and industrials tolerates up to 80%, whereas an auto battery will quickly die at such discharge rates. Numerous batteries found in small boats will be labeled "auto/marine" and the only way to tell the type is by cutting it open and examining the plates unless you are buying a reputable brand, but it's still a pretty good bet that any battery so labeled isn't going to be very good. There are also very many brand names of this type, and also many of low quality.

    Deep-Cycle These batteries are distinguished by having much thicker plates (1/4" or 0.270" for Surette), nearly seven times thicker than an automotive battery, but high quality batteries will have solid lead plates versus others made of a lead powder composite. Lead powder plates allow for much more rapid charging but also deteriorate much faster, whereas solid or more dense and thicker plates are slower charging but have much longer service life.

    Deep cycle batteries withstand greater abuse and thousands of charging cycles and have much greater service life than the other two types. They do not, however, have as great cranking or burst power, being designed to provide power over longer periods of time. Best for use with inverter systems. They are identifiable by their cost of 2-3 times that of other types and 20 hour AH ratings. True deep cycle batteries are usually only found in larger, higher end boats and yachts due to their greater cost, as well as the huge power demands of larger boats. The number of brand names of this type is relatively small since the cost is higher. Good quality ones are usually not found in discount stores or mass retail outlets.

    When deep cycle batteries are used in boats, it is necessary to have considerably greater amperage than that required by the engine starter. This is almost never a problem since these batteries are used in banks of more than one battery per bank. When you get up to sizes like 4D and 8, 125 & 250 AH respectively, even a single battery is more than adequate because the amperage is so high.

    Golf Cart batteries are generally a quasi-deep cycle similar to marine, and though not as good as batteries with solid plates, they are better than the auto/marine types. Usually set up in banks of six volt batteries, these have a greater number of plates to provide longer periods of use under a constant power demand and deep discharging. T-105, US2200 and GC-4 are common identifiers. These batteries can discharge up to 80% without being damaged. They are not better for use with inverters than true deep cycle batteries.

    RV Batteries This name has recently begun appearing on batteries found in boats. Within the industry, there is no common battery type known as "RV" but it can be assumed that, like the "auto/marine" designation, it is a hybrid somewhere between a cranking and deep-cycle battery.

    Industrial Batteries "Industrial" or "commercial" has long been used as a designation for deep cycle batteries used in fork lifts, sweepers, floor cleaners and similar battery powered machinery. Similar to golf cart but usually true deep cycle types with much heavier and pure lead plates up to around 0.270" thick. These batteries can discharge up to 80% without being damaged.

    Yet another type name has crept into the lexicon recently, is the RV type. Most RV types sold are cranking batteries or hybrids as indicated by their higher cranking power but lower reserve power.

    Obviously, the deep-cycle is the preferred battery type for marine use but for it's one drawback of being less able to provide high cranking power. This is overcome simply by increasing battery size.

    Gel Cells

    The primary difference between gel cells and flooded acid batteries is that the electrolyte in gel cells has been gelled by the addition of silica gel, turning the liquid into a thickened mush the same way napalm is gelled gasoline. Once hailed as the messiah of marine batteries, gel cells have since revealed their weakness to being damaged by heat and overcharging as these batteries cannot be fast charged by ordinary fast chargers and require much slower charging rates. Gel batteries sustain a far lower number of charging cycles than wet cell batteries, 2,000 versus 500 cycles for gel cells. This makes them less than ideal for marine applications. Additionally, they do not hold up well in hot engine rooms. The added cost has not proved worth the meager benefit of not spilling acid. Despite the common misperception, the gel cell electrolyte does evaporate over time.

    AGM Batteries

    AGM stands for Absorbed Glass Mat which contains the electrolyte absorbed in a mesh of Boron-Silicate glass fibers. Thus there is no fluid electrolyte to leak or spill nor will they suffer from freeze damage. There are two big advantages of this type. First, it can be charged with conventional chargers without fear of damage from modest overcharging. Second, water loss is reportedly reduced by 99% because hydrogen and oxygen are recombined within the battery. Further, this type has a modestly lower self discharge rate of 1-3% versus up to 15% with standard lead-acid batteries. The AGM is a true no maintenance battery. It otherwise has similar characteristics as the standard lead-acid battery. They have yet to see much use in boats, probably due to the higher cost. Widely used in battery back up power systems and solar systems.

    The down side is the cost of around 2-3 times comparable standard batteries. Thus their greatest benefit is for installations where it is hard or impossible to ventilate charging fumes such as the interiors of sail boats.

    Sealed or maintenance-free batteries

    This battery type has sealed, but still vented cells because all batteries need to be vented to prevent gas build up and exploding during charging. Will not immediately leak if overturned but will over time. They are designed in such a way as to recover a large portion of the electrolyte that is normally lost through gassing of a normal wet cell. Even so, these batteries will loose electrolyte over time, causing premature failure due to overcharging.

    HydroCaps and Water Mizers

    These two after market devices fit in place of ordinary wet cell caps and are designed to reduce electrolyte loss from recharging by recapturing the escaping fluid. Both are widely reported to be quite effective. HydroCaps are about twice as effective as Water Mizers as the HydroCaps recombine escaping hydrogen and oxygen into water and cost twice as much (about 6.50 each) as Water Mizers. Good for boat owners who want to maintain their batteries carefully. Particularly good for very heavy battery use and deeper discharges. Recommended for large, non maintenance free batteries.

    Sealed or Not Sealed? Most deep cycle batteries are not sealed, or may have removable recovery caps as described above. This is because deep cycle types will last a long time in which some electrolyte loss is inevitable and you want to be able to add water as needed. If you care about battery maintenance, unsealed or types with recovery caps are the best choice.

    Battery Size

    Unfortunately, battery manufacturers play a lot of games with battery sizes and ratings, making it very difficult for us to identify battery power. This is because of two factors that can be manipulated for marketing purposes. The most important things to know a bout a battery (other than voltage) is how much power and for how long. As discussed above, there are also legitimate reasons why manufacturers will favor one aspect over another, as in the need for high cranking power or longer discharge rates.

    The physical dimensions of a battery are loosely relative to it's power. A battery with more or larger plates in it naturally has to be physically larger, and so does a battery with thicker plates like the deep cycle battery. This is why automotive batteries can be rather small, and yet have high CCA ratings but very low reserve power.

    Group Size This is a rating promulgated by Battery Council International that defines nothing more than the physical, external size of the battery. It's purpose is to determine what size battery will fit in a given space; it has nothing to do with power rating.

    Battery Types

    Battery manufacturers often refer to their range of products rather inappropriately as "types". One manufacturer defines types as lead-acid versus NiCad, while another refers to 1D, 3D, 4D and 8D, or group number batteries as sizes. As near as I have been able to determine, 4D and 8D were model names of the Surette Battery Company that have since fallen into generic usage. The 4D is a 150 A.H. battery and the 8D, around 250 A.H. The 4D and 8D sizes are commonly referred to as boat sizes. Alternatively, there are the BCI types which are group sizes that have nothing to do with ratings, only physical dimensions.

    Battery Ratings

    Amp-Hour battery rating: AH is a common battery rating for batteries. Amp-hour rating of battery capacity is calculated by multiplying the current (in amperes) by time (in hours) that the current is drawn. Variations of the amp-hour battery rating is the most used rating. It most commonly signifies a deep cycle, marine or industrial battery.

    Example: A battery which delivers 2 amperes for 20 hours would have a 40 amp-hour battery rating (2 x 20= 40). This is known as the 20-hour rating versus other ratings based on times such as 5, 8 and 100 hours, but also at different amperage rates. Such ratings are given based on what is considered most useful for the intended application. A battery intended to supply low amperage for long periods, for example, would use the 100 hour method, whereas a 5 hour rating would likely be for a high amperage rate. The 20 hour method is most common.

    Cold Cranking Amperage rating: CCA is the discharge load in amps which a battery can sustain for 30 seconds at 0 degrees F. and not fall below 1.2 volts per cell (7.2V on 12V battery). This battery rating measures a burst of energy that a car needs to start on a cold morning. This rating is used mainly for rating batteries for engine starting and tells you that you are looking at a starting battery. Example: the battery in my car is rated at 580 CCA. What does that mean to you and me? Well, probably nothing for it's meaning is relative to the ratings in other batteries. It says nothing other than an indication of starting power unless one is up to doing some serious math.

    Reserve Capacity rating: RC is the number of minutes a new, fully charged battery at 80 degrees F will sustain a discharge load of 25 amps to a cut-off voltage of 1.75 volts per cell (10.5V on 12V battery). This battery rating measures more of a continuous load on the battery and is a much better indicator of how it will operate bilge pumps. An RC number given in the specification indicates that it is more than just a cranking battery and probably a hybrid starting battery. This is a very useful rating for a boater.

    Reserve capacity is directly, though not completely, related to battery plate size and quality. As a general rule, cranking batteries have little reserve capacity after cranking operation unless they have thicker plates. If they have thicker plates, it will have a lower CCA rating.

    MCA Marine Cranking Amps is a proprietary rating that is the same as CCA. It's an indicator that the battery is most likely an ordinary automotive cranking battery sold as suitable for boats.

    Warm temperature affects lead-acid batteries positively, but cold temps negatively. These batteries in hot engine rooms are not negatively affected as higher temperatures actually increase voltage.

    Ratings By Month and Warranties Increasingly consumer batteries are being sold with month/life ratings, such as 24, 48, 60, etc. As with all advertising, the words are better than the reality, particularly when you don't read the fine print. The bold print giveth and the fine print taketh away. Virtually all of the batteries that I have investigated that use month/life advertising, do not make any warranty that the battery (s) will last that long. Only the "60 month" moniker merely suggests that.

    Virtually all "consumer" or mass market batteries have "pro rata" warranties, and that only for "defects in materials or workmanship. The vast majority of marine batteries investigated have 24-30 month warranties on a pro rata basis. That means that if the battery lasts 18 months on a 24 month warranty, you'll have to pay 75% of the cost of a new one while the manufacturer chips in 25%, assuming there is a defect and you did not fail to keep it properly charged.

    The following warranty examples from a mass market battery (marine) labeled as 60 month:

    ABC Battery Company warrants only to the original purchaser that: 1) this battery is free of defects in material and workmanship for the number of months indicated on the label, and 2) prior to installation or use, the state of charge of this battery has been maintained at a level equal to or greater than the minimum level considered necessary under industry standards for batteries to perform effectively upon their use or installation. If adjustment is necessary due to a defect in material or workmanship, or state of charge below minimum industry standards prior to installation or use, and the battery is NOT MERELY DISCHARGED after installation or use, then upon return of the battery to an authorized dealer: Within twelve (12) months from the date of original purchase, all marine batteries of the following types: HD24-DP, 24M-HD, 24M-RD, 24M-XHD, SRM-24, SRM-27, SRM-27B, SRM-29, will be replaced free of charge (except for taxes, where applicable).

    The following is a warranty from Rolls-Surette:

    Failure within 24 months from the date placed in service yields FREE REPLACEMENT, not including freight charges from the factory to the applicable destination. After the first 24 months of service, defective batteries will be adjusted for a period of up to 60 months prorated from the date first in service at prices in effect at time of adjustment.

    Reading the warranty will often reveal the quality of the battery. A broader warranty usually means a better quality unit.

    Typical Service Life Under Deep Cycle Use*

    Cranking battery 12-18 months

    Marine 1-4 years

    Gel Cell 2-5 years (excluding Florida)

    Golf Cart 2-6 years

    Deep Cycle 4-6 years

    Surette Deep Cycle 6+ years**

    * Assumes proper installation and maintenance, and a properly calibrated charger. Based in part on personal observation from surveys as well as opinions of other experts. The range of time is dependent on frequency and degree of use.

    ** Surette batteries are often found in large yachts where short battery life is rarely a problem, in part due to high grade chargers and frequent maintenance.

    My Recommendations for Boat Batteries

    Outboard boats can get away with using automotive cranking batteries so long as there is no heavy power demand equipment) this does not include navigation equipment like radios, GPS, fish finder, etc., as these use little power. Equipment such as live bait well pumps, trolling motors, spotlights, electric down riggers, video chart recorders and so on demand deep-cycle batteries. However, to avoid annual battery replacement, deep cycle batteries will perform best when charging is completely reliant on engine alternators since cranking batteries do not tolerate deep discharges well. Further, if you're going offshore where there may be high demand on bilge pumps, BEWARE that cheap automotive batteries aren't going to run your pumps for very long, particularly after engine failure. Offshore operators should use higher capacity deep-cycle batteries.

    Because of the high power demands on batteries in cruisers while engines aren't running or being charged by chargers, cranking batteries are a poor choice unless a boat has no appreciable other DC equipment. Boats with DC refrigerators, radar, anchor windlasses and other heavy power demands are best served by true deep cycle batteries. They are the primary reason why so many small boat owners have to replace batteries so often. MY advice is to avoid batteries labeled "auto-marine."

    Sport fishermen typically have very high power demands so that only deep cycle batteries can be expected to perform well.

    The question of whether you should buy deep-cycle versus marine batteries is fairly well answered by the increased service life of true deep cycle batteries versus those labeled "marine". Larger size deep-cycle batteries have no problem handling engine starting and go on providing reserve power for other things even without charging. Because boat batteries are subject to a lot of abuse, spending the money for higher quality deep-cycle batteries is usually well worth the extra cost.

    Most dedicated battery resellers (those that serve business, industry and marine) typically quote prices at an installed rate. That means that they will deliver the batteries to your boat and install them and insure that they are installed properly. If you've ever tried to move batteries in and out of your engine room, you know that this is no easy task. 8D batteries weigh up to 190 lbs. Thus, the prices when quoted may at first seem very high, but are a lot less so when you realize that this includes installation and disposal of your old batteries. (We are now required to pay an environmental impact fee for battery disposal, which pretty much cancels out the salvage value that we used to get for old batteries.)

    Battery Charging

    Charging is a complicated issue that I'm not going to get into here beyond saying that battery charging becomes a problem when engines aren't operated long enough to complete a full charge, such as infrequent use and frequent starting and stopping. This happens as a result of short runs, as in fishing. For boats that are always on shore power systems when not running, this isn't a problem. Outboard boat owners most often suffer from battery failure due to incomplete charging. Achieving a complete charge will take several hours at least, so when you're operating for shorter periods, it is likely batteries aren't being fully charged.

    Incomplete charges have a cumulative effect; that is, after incomplete charging, the battery is partly depleted and this leads to yet further depletion and longer charging times. It may only take two incomplete charging cycles for a battery to ultimately fail to start an engine, or even become damaged. The reason car batteries fail so frequently is due to short hops that result in cumulative incomplete recharging.

    There is really no such thing as quick charging when talking about completing a full charge. A quick charge may bring a battery up sufficient charge (75%) to start an engine, but full charging takes much longer at lower amperage to complete the final 25%.

    Battery Testing

    The problem with any simple method of testing batteries is that it is only good for proving the negative. That is, you can prove that a battery has low power or is bad, but without a load tester you can't prove the overall condition. If you have wet cell batteries, using the hygrometer is useful under controlled conditions, like before charging when the electrolyte is well mixed. After charging the electrolyte tends to concentrate near the top and give false readings. But with sealed batteries all you can do is test the voltage which will only tell you the present state of charge, not the likely remaining useful life.

    The voltage on a fully charged battery should be about 12.7-12.8 volts. If it's higher, the charger is on. Batteries will usually fail to start an engine at 12 volts or less. This is dependent on the age of the battery. A new, but depleted battery may only fail to start at a voltage as low as 11.5 volts.

    Be wary of electric panel meters; they are often very inaccurate. Use a multi meter to test the batteries and then reset the panel meters if they are adjustable. Also, be aware that with the engines running, the helm voltmeters are reading through the alternator and are showing the charge rate, not battery state. Read these meters without starting the engines.

    High Quality Battery Manufacturers

    The Surette and Rolls battery companies are well known as being the Cadillac of batteries. It is a fair assumption that battery quality is directly related to price. If you are seeking nothing but low cost, you can be guaranteed to end up with a low quality battery, and low quality batteries are never worth what you pay for them. You are unlikely to find the highest quality batteries sold at common retail outlets where price is always the primary consideration.
    shrimpmansteve likes this.
  2. Nautical Gator

    Nautical Gator Forum Captain, Moderator, Peacekeeper Staff Member
    Thread Started By

    SeaVolt SeaGel Deep Cycle Batteries, Dual-Purpose 12V Batteries, Dual-Purpose Absorbed Glass Mat Batteries, 6V Deep-Cycle Batteries, 12V Deep-Cycle Marine Batteries, Marine Starting Batteries, AGM Batteries for Personal Watercraft

    Making Interstate MT7 AGM Batteries
  3. Nautical Gator

    Nautical Gator Forum Captain, Moderator, Peacekeeper Staff Member
    Thread Started By

    Replacing all three of my offshore batteries...

    Discussion of which brand battery's do you have in your boats, for how long, and what results have you had?
  4. gilman

    gilman Matey

  5. Nautical Gator

    Nautical Gator Forum Captain, Moderator, Peacekeeper Staff Member
    Thread Started By

    As much as a hate buying new battery's, when you go 40 - 70 miles offshore good working batteries needed and appreciated.
    lobsterman likes this.
  6. keep it reel

    keep it reel Lieutenant Commander

    Good idea Sam. The interstate and Deka batteries are both very good
  7. Nautical Gator

    Nautical Gator Forum Captain, Moderator, Peacekeeper Staff Member
    Thread Started By

    Choosing the Right Marine Battery

    Deka Marine Master Flooded Batteries
    The Marine Master flooded battery series rises to the top in user-friendly, marine-tough service and extended reliability.

    Starting Power –
    High Marine Cranking Power

    • High cranking power for quick engine starts
    • Flush cover, easy to install
    • Extra reserve capacity for emergencies
    • Maintenance-free design
    Deep Cycle/Starting – The Best of Both Worlds

    • High starting and deep cycle capability
    • Longer cycling than starting battery
    • Extra reserve power for accessory loads
    • Rugged vibration-resistant construction
    Heavy-Duty Deep Cycle – True Deep Cycle Service

    • More power for trolling and electronic accessories
    • Built-in protection against deep discharge damage
    • Rugged vibration-resistant construction
    • Reliable power for modest starting
    Additional Resources


    Why are East Penn’s Power-Perform Ⓡ Plates more efficient than other plates?
    The plate plays a critical role in the performance of the battery’s overall power system. The ability of the plate to store and deliver power is directly proportional to how well it supports the vehicle’s power needs. Power-Perform Plates perform these functions with the highest efficiency enabling more power-per-space and better overall performance.
    • Full-frame structure provides better current transfer from all sides of the plate
    • Enhanced crystallization of the active material and specially formulated oxide optimizes energy storage for high-powered performance
    • Low resistance current path grids with more top frame intersecting wires allow the direct flow of energy for greater starting power
    • Revolutionary paste adhesion techniques deliver better performance over extended use

    How do East Penn’s Power-Perform Plates Ⓡ perform better while lasting longer?
    Power-Perform Plates work within an overall battery life protection system and an advanced durability design to extend performance and service life.
    • Increased grid frame tensile strength resists plate growth to safeguard against life-threatening shorts
    • Thicker backweb and puncture resistant separators prevent plate-to-plate electrical shorts
    • Ultra-pure electrolyte with no impurities inhibits unnecessary water loss
    • Full-frame plate structure prevents exposed wire electrical shorts
    • Advanced battery formation controls prevent high temperature damage and under-formed, low-performance plates
    Precision craftsmanship, stringent testing, and consistent performance and quality analysis through advanced centralized laboratories ensure that Power-Perform Plates deliver optimized life, power, and durability, even under the most severe service. This means lower warranty claims due to less defects combined with better and longer battery performance.


    What are the different brands of East Penn marine batteries?

    Marine Master
    Marine Master batteries are renown for their proven dependability and solid performance. This flooded battery line offers a complete array of starting, dual purpose, and deep cycle solutions for virtually any marine need. Even under challenging marine conditions like wave pounding vibration, stubborn engine starting, heavy house power, auxiliary, and trolling, Marine Master batteries rise to the top in user-friendly, marine-tough service, and extended reliability.

    Intimidator AGM marine batteries go above and beyond conventional flooded designs providing an enhanced durability that powers more accessories longer. This premium spillproof, maintenance-free battery has pioneered a new era in user-convenience and safety while delivering the optimum combination of starting, cycling, and deep cycle power.

    Dominator Gel marine batteries take deep cycle service to even deeper levels. An innovative gelled electrolyte technology protects the battery from ultra-deep discharges providing the trolling and heavy house power to handle even the most serious boating and fishing needs.

    What are the types of marine batteries under each of East Penn’s marine brands?

    Marine Master
    • DEEP CYCLE/STARTING (Dual Purpose)



    What types of marine batteries are right for my application?
    Ideally, you could have one battery for starting and an auxiliary deep cycle battery for the trolling motor and accessories. If however, you can only have one battery on board, the one you choose depends on the power draw required.

    For light to moderate-duty low amp draw service, choose the dual purpose battery, specially designed to handle both starting and cycling. For heavy-duty cycling, choose the deep cycle battery. This will give you enough cranking amperage to start your engine, and the most reserve power to keep your trolling motor and accessories running longer. (Always be sure that the replacement battery CA and CCA meet minimum engine starting requirements.)

    How should I choose between Starting, Deep Cycle, Dual Purpose, AGM, and Gel for my marine battery application?
    Please see page 3 of our Deka Marine Complete Line Brochure for more information.

    What are some of the features that each type of East Penn’s marine brands has to offer?

    Marine Master
    Designed for Dependability
    • EXCLUSIVE MOLDED-IN DUAL TERMINALS provide an easy connection with post or corrosion resistant stainless steel stud.
    • OPTIMIZED FULL-FRAME PLATES better withstand severe service demands and provide maximum current transfer.
    • EXTENDED LIFE SYSTEMS include special separators to prevent life-robbing electrical shorts and protect power producing components.
    • FORTIFIED CURRENT CARRYING COMPONENTS resist vibration and maximize performance throughout the battery’s life.

    AGM Enhanced Electrolyte Suspension System
    • SHOCK-ABSORBING SEPARATORS resist vibration and damage.
    • ENHANCED DURABILITY DESIGNS withstand wear of extended cycling service.
    • SUPERIOR ELECTROLYTE RETENTION prevents dry out and acid leaks.
    • LOWER CURRENT RESISTANT SEPARATORS improve current flow for faster starts.

    Extreme Performance Gel
    • THICK, SHOCK-ABSORBING GEL AND HIGH DENSITY PLATES provide superior resistance to vibration and damage.
    • GELLED ELECTROLYTE CONSISTENCY prevents ultra-deep discharge damage from a uniform acid gravity.
    • SOLID GEL STATE won’t leak or spill like liquid electrolyte.
    • REINFORCED FIBERGLASS MAT AND EXCLUSIVE TANKFORMED PLATES prevent shorts and enhance electrical performance.

    AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) TECHNOLOGY

    What is AGM?
    AGM stands for Absorbed Glass Mat

    What is an Absorbed Glass Mat?
    A highly absorbent, micro-porous mat made of special glass fibers. The specially designed mats are an essential component in the battery’s electrolyte suspension system. All of the electrolyte is absorbed into this material enabling a spillproof design.

    Why buy an AGM battery from East Penn?
    East Penn is a pioneer in developing the Form, Fit, and Function of AGM battery technology. The company’s engineering design and manufacturing process meets major US and European OE automotive manufacturers’ standards. From the company’s use of the finest raw materials to precision-focused manufacturing (like the weighing and thickness analysis of every battery group), East Penn’s AGM battery design and process has been tested and proven to best meet the Form, Fit, and Function criteria of the automotive industry.

    Are AGM batteries OK for any application?
    AGM batteries will replace a flooded battery in any typical alternator voltage regulated system. These systems generally maintain a voltage at 13.8 to 14.4 volts (cars, trucks, commercial trucks, boats, etc.). In fact, the efficient recharging of the AGM battery design can cause less wear on the vehicle’s alternator system over time.

    Can AGM batteries be recycled like conventional flooded batteries?
    AGM and conventional flooded lead-acid batteries are one of the most recyclable products on the planet. Lead-acid batteries have a higher recycling rate than glass, aluminum, and newspaper. In fact, virtually 100% of every battery component can be recycled to make a brand new battery. East Penn operates one of the most modern and environmentally-safe facilities in the world. This enables our customers to assure their customers that they are recycling their batteries with someone they can trust.

    Is AGM really a premium battery product?
    Yes. This advanced AGM technological design offers superior performance over conventional flooded batteries. All automotive batteries are expected to meet a certain level of performance standards for engine starting and to provide reserve power for the vehicle’s electronics. AGM batteries, however, are expected to excel in certain key aspects of battery use such as:


    As the electrical, high heat, severe service, and durability demands continue to intensify for today’s vehicles, conventional flooded batteries may not deliver the dependable performance and service life needed under these conditions. This is not only the trend for cars and trucks, but now commercial trucks, marine vessels, and power sports vehicles are requiring a more evolved type of battery power.

    Why do customers need better cycling performance from their batteries?
    Today’s vehicles, and those to come, are being built with more factory-installed electronics and more places to plug in portable devices. For example, cars and other passenger vehicles have to provide power for items like LCD viewers, GPS systems, stereos and speakers, powered windows or doors, cell and smart phone charging, and anything else that plugs in or turns on. Boats need power for accessories like live-wells, GPS systems, stereos, hazard lighting, fish finders, and any other item that plugs in or turns on. Cars that utilize stop/start functions, like Micro Hybrid Electric Vehicles, demand extra durability and a better charge acceptance from their battery. As more types of electric vehicles evolve, so will the need for a higher cycling tolerance from the battery.

    How do AGM batteries help to deliver better cycling performance?
    AGM battery technology withstands these additional accessory power and cycling demands while still having the power to start the vehicle. An AGM battery’s enhanced durability and charge acceptance makes it an essential component for many stop/start and other electrical system technology. Its ability to have over twice the cycle life of a conventional flooded design gives it a clear advantage for its implementation into progressing electric vehicle technology.

    Why do customers need better severe service durability from their battery?
    Severe service and higher temperature conditions continue to escalate because there is less open space under-the-hood with more demand on the battery. Also, more vehicles undergo stop-and-start driving conditions, further increasing the need for enhanced durability.

    How do AGM batteries help deliver better severe service durability?
    AGM battery technology can be utilized to help offset these increasing power and durability demands. The AGM battery’s ability to withstand severe service and accessory power demands under elevated temperatures and stop-and-go conditions will better safeguard performance and extend battery life.

    Why do customers need a better deep discharge resiliency from their battery?

    Vehicles that aren’t used everyday have a higher risk of not starting because of parasitic accessory power loads. Parasitic loads, or even leaving something on when the ignition is off, can completely drain the battery’s power.

    How do AGM batteries help deliver better deep discharge resiliency?
    AGM battery technology delivers a higher deep discharge abuse tolerance. This helps protect the battery longer from situations like infrequent use, parasitic power drains, or other deep power discharge (like leaving your vehicle’s lights on when the ignition is off).

    Why do customers need a battery that resists vibration damage?
    Vibration resistance is extremely important to protecting the battery’s life in almost any application that moves. Vibration or jolting movements can lead to electrical shorts or the loss of electrical storage capacity that can significantly decrease the battery’s performance.

    How do AGM batteries help deliver battery vibration resistance?
    AGM technology utilizes an Absorbed Glass Mat that protects the battery’s internal components. These special separators serve as a shock absorber to the battery, which buffers vibration or other potentially damaging movement. This added vibration protection is especially ideal for off-road vehicles, watercraft, performance cars, tuner cars, or any other vehicles that undergo intense vibration during normal use.


    What is Cycle Life?
    A CYCLE is a single occurrence when energy is taken out of the battery and then put back in. CYCLE LIFE is the ability of the battery to do that over and over again and continue to deliver reliable performance.

    How does claims of extended CYCLE LIFE differ from claims of just extended battery life?
    Claims that a battery has extended LIFE could simply mean it survives longer than average in a typical automotive application in an average climate. In the real world, actual battery life is highly variable and unpredictable. The stresses on a battery differ by climate, vehicle differences, and user habits. A battery may last a long time under ideal conditions, but fail with only minimal abuse.

    A battery with extended CYCLE LIFE survives longer than average under more grueling demands that portray a more realistic picture of real world use. This includes warmer climates, higher under-hood temperatures, longer than typical hours of usage, higher annual miles of operation, and frequent electrical loads while the engine is off.

    Why do customers need better cycling performance from their batteries?
    Today’s vehicles, and those to come, are being built with more factory-installed electronics and more places to plug in portable devices. For example, cars and other passenger vehicles have to provide power for items like LCD viewers, GPS systems, stereos and speakers, powered windows or doors, cell and smart phone charging, and anything else that plugs in or turns on. Boats need power for accessories like live-wells, GPS systems, stereos, hazard lighting, fish finders, and any other item that plugs in or turns on.

    Newer cars are also utilizing additional electronic functions in areas that were traditionally powered by the engine. This is not only the case for Hybrid Electic Vehicles, but is also being incorporated throughout a variety of standard automotive designs. These additional electronic services demand extra performance from the battery. As more types of vehicles evolve further into electrification, so will the need for the higher cycling tolerance and overall durability in a battery that can be found in the AGM design.

    How does East Penn’s AGM product have extended CYCLE LIFE?
    East Penn’s AGM batteries have special glass mats that are strategically wrapped around the battery’s power producing components. The main reason for this mat is to absorb all the battery’s acid so the battery won’t leak or spill if turned over or if cracked. However, these mats also provide an added layer of protection for these components. This added protection enhances the battery’s durability against continual power drains like electronics. In fact, East Penn’s AGM batteries have 2x the cycle life over traditional maintenance-free flooded batteries to power more accessories for much longer. This enhanced durability also protects the battery from vibration, high temperatures, the rigors of stop-and-go driving and frequent vehicle use.


    What are VRLA batteries?
    Valve-Regulated Lead-Acid or VRLA, including Gel and AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) battery designs, can be substituted in virtually any flooded lead-acid battery application (in conjunction with well-regulated charging). Their unique features and benefits deliver an ideal solution for many applications where traditional flooded batteries would not deliver the best results. For almost three decades, East Penn has been manufacturing valve-regulated batteries using tried and true technology backed by more than 65 years experience. East Penn produces a complete line of Gel, AGM, and conventional flooded products for hundreds of applications. This diverse product offering enables East Penn to be objective as to the advantages of each type of battery. East Penn’s VRLA (Gel and AGM) products have the reputation of being the highest quality VRLA batteries available.

    How do VRLA batteries work?
    A VRLA battery utilizes a one-way, pressure-relief valve system to achieve a “recombinant” technology. This means that the oxygen normally produced on the positive plate is absorbed by the negative plate. This suppresses the production of hydrogen at the negative plate. Water (H2O) is produced instead, retaining the moisture within the battery. It never needs watering, and should never be opened as this would expose the battery to excess oxygen from the air. In addition to damaging the battery, opening it also voids the warranty.

    What is the difference between VRLA batteries and traditional flooded batteries?
    Flooded electrolyte batteries do not have special one-way, pressure-relief valves, as they do not work on the recombination principle. Instead, flooded designs utilize a vent to allow gas to escape. They contain liquid electrolyte that can spill and cause corrosion if tipped or punctured. They should not be used near sensitive electronic equipment.
    They can only be installed “upright.” Flooded batteries lose capacity and become permanently damaged if:
    • Left in a discharged condition for any length of time (due to sulfation). This is especially true of designs that require water maintenance.
    • Continually over-discharged (due to active material shedding). This is especially true of automotive starting types.

    What are ideal applications for VRLA batteries?

    Deep Cycle, Deep Discharge Applications
    • Marine Trolling
    • Electronics
    • Sailboats
    • Electric Vehicles
    • Wheelchairs/Scooters
    • Golf Cars
    • Portable Power
    • Floor Scrubbers
    • Personnel Carriers
    • Renewable Energy
    • Village Power (Solar, Wind)
    • Marine & RV House Power
    • Commercial Deep Cycle Applications

    Standby and Emergency Backup Applications
    • UPS (Uninterrupted Power Systems)
    • Cable TV
    • Emergency Lighting
    • Computer Backup
    • Renewable Energy
    • Frequency Regulation (Solar, Wind)
    • Telephone Switching

    Other Applications
    • Race or High Performance Cars
    • On-Highway Trucking
    • Off-Road Vehicles
    • Wet Environments
    • Marine & RV Starting
    • Diesel Starting
    • Cars and Light Trucks
    • Vehicles with with Accessories
    • Start-Stop Systems

    What are Gel and AGM batteries?
    VRLA technology encompasses both gelled electrolyte or gel batteries and absorbed glass mat or AGM batteries. Both types are regulated by special one-way, pressure-relief valves and have significant advantages over flooded lead-acid products.

    AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) batteries
    The electrolyte in AGM batteries is completely absorbed in separators consisting of matted glass fibers. This causes them to be spillproof, meaning they don’t leak acid like a flooded design if tipped on their side. The glass mats in AGM batteries are wrapped around the positive plate, which helps prevent damage from vibration and extend cycling. The battery’s groups are packed tightly in the case partitions also protecting its power producing components. AGM battery designs can have over twice the cycle life of a conventional flooded product in the right application.

    Gel or Gelled Electrolyte batteries
    The electrolyte in a Gel battery is permanently locked in a highly viscous gelled state instead of the traditional liquid form. Because there is no liquid-type electrolyte, it will not leak out of the battery if tipped on its side. The thick, gelled electrolyte and tightly packed groups also protect the battery’s power producing components. Gel battery designs have a superior deep discharge resiliency and can deliver over two to three times the cycle life of an AGM product in the right applications.

    What are some similarities between Gel and AGM batteries?
    Batteries utilize special one-way, pressure-relief valves and must never be opened.
    • Requires no electrolyte maintenance unlike deep cycle flooded batteries that require frequent checking and adjustment of electrolyte levels.
    • Uses a recombination reaction to prevent the escape of hydrogen and oxygen gases normally lost in a flooded lead-acid battery (particularly in deep cycle applications).
    • Spillproof design enables installation in virtually any position (upside-down installation is not recommended).
    • Has a higher tolerance against damage from deep discharge. These batteries have optimized amounts of electrolyte (which is also referred to as “acid-starved”) so that they use the power in the acid before they use the power in the plates. This minimizes the destructive nature of ultra-deep discharges. Ultra-deep discharging is what causes plate shedding, which can destroy a battery.

    What are the Major differences between Gel and AGM battery performance?
    A Gel battery is better suited for super-deep discharge applications, which means it can withstand deeper discharges without damaging the battery’s performance. However, due to the physical properties of the gelled electrolyte, Gel battery power declines faster than an AGM battery as the temperature drops below 32ºF (0ºC). AGM batteries excel for high current, high power applications and in extremely cold environments. AGM batteries deliver a better dual purpose solution for a combination of starting and accessory power.

    What are the advantages of GEL and AGM battery designs?
    (waiting on image)

    What do I need to know about VRLA battery charging?
    All lead-acid batteries release hydrogen from the negative plate and oxygen from the positive plate during charging. VRLA batteries have one-way, pressure-relief valves. Without the ability to retain pressure within the cells, hydrogen and oxygen would be lost to the atmosphere, eventually drying out the electrolyte and separators.

    Voltage is electrical pressure (energy per unit of charge). Charge (ampere-hours) is a quantity of electricity. Current (amperes) is electrical flow (charging speed). A battery can only store a certain quantity of electricity. The closer it gets to being fully charged, the slower it must be charged. Temperature also affects charging. If the right voltage is used for the temperature, a battery will accept charge at its ideal rate. If too much voltage is used, charge will be forced through the battery faster than it can be stored.

    Reactions other than the charging reaction also occur to transport this current through the battery—mainly gassing. Hydrogen and oxygen may be given off faster than the recombination reaction. This raises the pressure until the one-way, pressure-relief valve opens. The gas lost cannot be replaced. Any VRLA battery will dry out and fail prematurely if it experiences excessive overcharging.

    Note: It is too much voltage that initiates this problem, not too much charge — a battery can be “over-charged” (damaged by too much voltage) even though it is not fully “charged.” Never install any lead-acid battery in a sealed container or enclosure. Hydrogen gas must be allowed to escape.

    Can continual undercharging harm a VRLA battery?
    In many respects, undercharging is as harmful as overcharging. Keeping a battery in an undercharged condition allows the positive grids to corrode and the plates to shed, dramatically shortening life. Also, an undercharged battery must work harder than a fully charged battery, which contributes to short life as well.

    An undercharged battery has a greatly reduced capacity. It may easily be inadvertently over-discharged and eventually damaged.

    Do VRLA batteries have a “memory” like Ni-Cad batteries?
    One of the major disadvantages of nickel-cadmium (Ni-cad) batteries is that after shallow discharge cycles, the unused portions of the electrodes “remember” the previous cycles and are unable to sustain the required discharge voltage beyond the depth of the previous cycles. The capacity is lost and can only be restored by slowly discharging completely (generally outside the application), and properly recharging. VRLA lead-acid batteries do not exhibit this capacity robbing effect known as memory.

    What are the safety precautions for VRLA batteries?
    Although all valve-regulated batteries have the electrolyte immobilized within the cell, the electrical hazard associated with batteries still exists. Work performed on these batteries should be done with the tools and the protective equipment listed below. Valve-regulated battery installations should be supervised by personnel familiar with batteries and battery safety precautions.

    Protective Equipment
    To assure safe battery handling, installation and maintenance, the following protection equipment should be used:
    • Safety glasses or face shield (Consult application specific requirements)
    • Acid-resistant gloves
    • Protective aprons and safety shoes
    • Proper lifting devices
    • Properly insulated tools

    Consult user manual of specific application for safety & operating requirements. The following safety procedures should be followed during installation: (Always wear safety glasses or face shield.)
    1. These batteries are sealed and contain no free flowing electrolyte. Under normal operating conditions, they do not present any acid danger. However, if the battery jar, case, or cover is damaged, acid could be present. Sulfuric acid is harmful to the skin and eyes. Flush affected area with water immediately and consult a physician if splashed in the eyes. Consult MSDS for additional precautions and first aid measures.
    2. Prohibit smoking and open flames, and avoid arcing in the immediate vicinity of the battery.
    3 .Do not wear metallic objects, such as jewelry, while working on batteries. Do not store un-insulated tools in pockets or tool belt while working in vicinity of battery.
    4. Keep the top of the battery dry and clear of all tools and other foreign objects.
    5. Provide adequate ventilation as regulated by Federal, State and Local codes and follow recommended charging voltages.
    6. Extinguishing media: Class ABC extinguisher. Note: CO2 may be used but not directly on the cells due to thermal shock and potential cracking of cases.
    7.Never remove or tamper with pressure-relief valves. Warranty void if vent valve is removed.

    Can VRLA batteries be installed in sealed battery boxes?
    NO! Never install any type of battery in a completely sealed container. Although most of the normal gasses (oxygen and hydrogen) produced in a VRLA battery will be recombined and not escape, oxygen and hydrogen will escape from the battery in an overcharge condition (as is typical of any type battery).

    These potentially explosive gasses must be allowed to vent to the atmosphere and must never be trapped in a sealed battery box or tightly enclosed space!

    Does depth of discharge affect cycle life?
    Yes! The harder any battery has to work, the sooner it will fail.

    The shallower the average discharge, the longer the life. It’s important to size a battery system to deliver at least twice the energy required, to assure shallow discharges.

    Follow these tips for the longest life:
    • Avoid ultra-deep discharges. The definition of ultra-deep discharge may vary with application and battery type.
    • Don’t leave a battery at a low stage of charge for an extended length of time. Charge a discharged battery as soon as possible.
    • Don’t cycle a battery at a low state of charge without regularly recharging fully.
    Use the highest initial charging current available (up to 30% of the 20-hour capacity per hour) while staying within the proper temperature-compensated voltage range.

    What is a thermal runaway?
    The appropriate charge voltage depends on the battery temperatures. A warmer battery requires a reduced voltage. If the voltage is not reduced, current accepted by the battery increases. When the current increases, the internal heating increases. This can rise to destructive levels if not taken into consideration.

    Thermal runaway can be prevented with:
    • Temperature compensation monitoring at the battery —not at the charger.
    • Limiting charging currents to appropriate levels.
    • Allowing for adequate air circulation around the batteries.
    • Using timers or ampere-hour counters.
    • Using smart chargers that recognize the signature of a thermal runaway event which will shut the charger down.

  8. Nautical Gator

    Nautical Gator Forum Captain, Moderator, Peacekeeper Staff Member
    Thread Started By

    Spring Boat Battery Maintenance
    Make sure your lead-acid boat batteries are in top shape for the coming season using this expert advice.
    Jeepster likes this.
  9. keep it reel

    keep it reel Lieutenant Commander

    Solid information
  10. Earl

    Earl Powder Monkey

    I'm on board west marine.
  11. Nautical Gator

    Nautical Gator Forum Captain, Moderator, Peacekeeper Staff Member
    Thread Started By

    Went with three new "Deka Marine Master" batteries in my offshore. it's also time to replace my inshore batteries.
  12. Nautical Gator

    Nautical Gator Forum Captain, Moderator, Peacekeeper Staff Member
    Thread Started By

    Last time out it felt like my battery was low, checked it out and decided to replace them, Just picked up two new "Deka Marine Master" batteries for my inshore, my inshore has three batteries.

    I used to use Interstate batteries but they started to make their plates over seas, and Deka is 100% made in the USA.

    P7240224.JPG P7240225.JPG P7240226.JPG
    keep it reel likes this.
  13. keep it reel

    keep it reel Lieutenant Commander

    Nice. Plenty of juice now
  14. Srfrdave

    Srfrdave Mate

    Im looking for new Trolling motor batteries. Where are these sold? I thought it was West, but I looked on their site but didnt see them. Anyone else have 2 cents on their battery experience for trolling motor. I have 24V 80Lb MK.

  15. Nautical Gator

    Nautical Gator Forum Captain, Moderator, Peacekeeper Staff Member
    Thread Started By

    surplus unlimited on st rd 92

  16. Jeepster

    Jeepster Able Bodied Sailor

    Deka 100% Made in the U.S.A. Yeah Buddy!!!! I have one for starting my Merc. It has served me well.
    Nautical Gator likes this.
  17. Alps

    Alps Swashbuckler

    1) Source of the original article? Didn't exactly sound like an independent white paper.
    2) 'Charging' --- probably one of the most important aspects of battery economics, ESPECIALLY for deep-cycles. The above article admittedly says it's 'complex'. Yes...it is. But the topic wasn't covered. Sadly, I'd venture a guess most of our deep-cycle applications (the way we desire to use them) probably don't allow for the optimal charging frequency that would give optimal battery life (and therefore, best economics + reliability), regardless of brand or type.
  18. Alps

    Alps Swashbuckler

    btw, There's a Deka facility (warehouse) right here in Sanford. I can usually get 'blem' automotives for a fraction of retail. They might have marine / deep cycles, too.
  19. Nautical Gator

    Nautical Gator Forum Captain, Moderator, Peacekeeper Staff Member
    Thread Started By

  20. Srfrdave

    Srfrdave Mate

    Thanks Alps, Spoke to the guys today in Sanford. Im heading up there next week after I check and run a high amp charge like he told me to. If doesn't work I will get 2 new ones.

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